To listen to some londoners talk, hampstead, in the northwest corner of the city, deserves to be described entirely in italicized adjectives, each as double-edged and cutting as a dagger. Posh, trendy, snobbish, twee -- they sneer at this leafy, upscale neighborhood that has managed to preserve its villagey atmosphere a century after being swallowed by the surrounding metropolis. Crowded with cute shops, French cafes, Italian espresso bars, Hungarian bakeries and Arab teahouses, populated by A-list celebrities and represented in Parliament by the actress Glenda Jackson, Hampstead has come to be viewed as a precinct of preening yuppies, house-proud toffs and politically correct kooks. Recently, The Independent, a serious Labor-supporting broadsheet, ran a front-page article about rich Hampstead residents who buy tiger and lion manure from the London Zoo, then spread it over their lawns. Not that they believe jungle beasts produce the best fertilizer.
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